Margaret Tayar's

4 Retsif Ha-Aliyah Shenei St Cuisines: Seafood

About

This fish restaurant, a landmark for Jaffa and Tel Aviv locals, has regularly made the top of the Ten Best Restaurants in Israel list put out each year by Ma'ariv, one of the country's largest newspapers. It's also won raves from Gourmet and other international press. In the worst of winter, it's a four-table affair with a seafaring interior, but as soon as the warmer weather arrives, the restaurant expands its easygoing spirit into a large covered terrace overlooking the sea, with a sweeping vista of the Tel Aviv shoreline. Whatever the season, you know you are in the presence of an inspired cook who loves to see people enjoying her creations. Portions are enormous, and everything is delicious, whether you choose Margaret's signature deep-fried filet of fish stuffed with "caviar"; rolled grape leaves filled with rice, nuts, and raisins served in yogurt and herbed olive oil; superb couscous; or masterfully seasoned whole grilled fish. Margaret Tayar makes everything herself each day, from the marinated North African salads and spicy fish sauces (which you might want served on the side) to the strudel filled with Middle Eastern fruits (order the strudel at the start of your meal, so it will be fresh from the oven in time for dessert). She is always whipping up masterpiece tidbits, and she'll be happy to help you put together a dinner that shows off the wonders of her kitchen for NIS 130 to NIS 160 ($33-$40/£16-£20) per person (although portions here are so large that two can easily share this kind of feast).

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