Paoli

Via dei Tavolini 12r Cuisines: Italian

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Paoli has one of the most suggestivo (oft-used Italian word for "evocative") settings in town, with tables under a 14th-century vaulted ceiling whose ribs and lunettes are covered with fading 18th-century frescoes. It's in the heart of the sightseeing zone, meaning the prices are as high as they can reasonably push them; very few Italians drop by, but the food is actually quite good. The ravioli verdi alla casalinga (spinach ravioli in tomato sauce) may not be inspiringly prepared, but it's freshly made and tasty. In mushroom season you can order risotto ai funghi, and year-round the scrumptious secondo entrecôte di manzo arlecchino (a thick steak in cognac-spiked cream sauce with peppercorns and sided with mashed potatoes).

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