Dora

At Paraguay Cuisines: Seafood, Spanish

About

Dora has been open since the 1940s, run by the same family (the third generation is now in charge), but it has moved recently from its former location. It's still loud, noisy, crazy, and chaotic -- an odd mix of businesspeople from nearby offices and casually dressed older locals who have been regulars for decades. The specialty is fish, with a few beef, chicken, and pasta dishes thrown in almost as an afterthought. The Cazuela Dora is the specialty -- a casserole of fish, shellfish, and shrimp thrown into one pot. It's expensive for Buenos Aires; appetizers alone run from $4 to $14 (£2.85-£9.95), though some of the starters are made with caviar. The dessert menu includes a surprisingly varied choice of light fruits in season. Because it serves so much fish, Dora has one of the city's largest white-wine selections.

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