Chez Jacotte

15 rue Fresque (impasse) Cuisines: French

About

The charm of this restaurant derives from its setting on a narrow, traffic-free street in the old town, with outdoor tables overlooking a small, shaded, medieval-looking square. During harsher weather, opt for a table inside the ocher and russet-colored dining room, beneath crisscrossed ceiling vaults that were built, according to the charming owner, "in stages between the Middle Ages and the 18th century." Cuisine here is redolent with the flavors and perfumes of France's "Deep South" and is entirely based on very fresh ingredients and produce. Examples include several different variations of local lamb, usually roasted in its own juices and served with fresh vegetables; a rich and pungent version of aïoli de morue (codfish and garlic stew); crisp-skinned mullet in basil-flavored olive oil; goat cheese and fig gratin; and an old-fashioned version of brandade de morue (codfish) prepared in a style that many local residents remember from their childhoods.

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