Yunteng Binguan
Chongwen Qu (follow Jianguo Men Nan Dajie south for 10 min.; on the south side of flyover)
Cuisines: Chinese, Asian
About
This is a low-key cadre restaurant with exceptionally fresh fare. Even though Yunnan is one of the poorest provinces in China, the Mandarins have their ingredients flown in several times each week. The decor exudes as much warmth as a hospital waiting room, but exceedingly friendly waitstaff more than compensate. The signature dish, guoqiao mixian (crossing-the-bridge rice noodles) is worth the trip in itself, a delicious blend of ham, chicken, chrysanthemum, chives, tofu skin, and a tiny egg, all blended at your table with rice noodles in chicken broth. Zhusun qiguoji (mushroom and mountain herbs chicken soup) is ideal comfort food, and zhutong paigu (spicy stewed pork with mint), while not actually steamed in the bamboo tube it's served in, has hearty, complex flavors. Avoid choosing the enticing mushroom dishes on the picture menu without first checking the price; the Yunteng stocks some fancy fungi.
