Trattoria Milanese

11 Via Santa Marta Cuisines: Italian

About

Giuseppe and Antonella Villa preside with a watchful eye over the centuries-old premises (a restaurant since 1933), tucked into a narrow lane in one of the oldest sections of Milan, just west of the Duomo. In the three-beamed dining room, Milanese families and other patrons share the long, crowded tables. Giuseppe, in the kitchen, prepares what many patrons consider to be some of the city's best traditional fare. The risotto alla Milanese with saffron and beef marrow, not surprisingly, is excellent, as is the minestrone that's served hot in the winter and at room temperature in the summer. The costolette alla Milanese, breaded and fried in butter, is even better here because only the choicest veal chops are used and it's served with the bone in, and the osso buco is cooked to perfection. If you want to try their twin specialties without pigging out, the dish listed as risotto e osso buco buys you a half portion each of their risotto alla Milanese and the osso buco for just 18€ ($23). Polenta with rich Gorgonzola cheese is one of the few nonmeat second courses. The attentive staff will help you choose an appropriate wine.

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