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Sheung Wan Cuisines: FrenchAbout
I was surprised to discover such a worldly restaurant so close to the famous Man Mo Temple in what is otherwise a fairly traditional Chinese neighborhood. Occupying a site once held in the 1920s by Hua Qiao Daily newspaper (hence the restaurant's name), it's yet more proof of the relentless westward gentrification along Hollywood Road. Still, there's little to reproach in this bustling brasserie that would look right at home in Paris or New York with its wall-to-wall blackboards, split-level dining room, comfortable booths, and open kitchen. Although the emphasis is on French cuisine -- with the likes of duck confit cassoulet or black cod served in tomato saffron broth with rouille and croutons, as well as a huge selection of oysters from around the world and sinfully delicious French desserts -- it also serves Italian bistro food and burgers, with everything except the bread homemade. The wine list is impressive for an independent restaurant, as is the walk-in cheese room in Classified, the restaurant's next-door shop selling gourmet foods and wine, filled with artisanal cheeses imported directly from producers in France, Switzerland, Ireland, and elsewhere. Note that this restaurant is so popular, it imposes two seatings for weekend dinners, at 7 and 9:15pm.
