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The Criterion Brasserie
224 Piccadilly, W1 Cuisines: European, English, FrenchAbout
Designed by Thomas Verity in the 1870s, this palatial neo-Byzantine mirrored marble hall is a glamorous backdrop for a superb cuisine, served under a golden ceiling, with theatrical peacock-blue draperies. The menu is wide ranging, offering everything from Paris brasserie food to "nouvelle-classical," a combination of classic French cooking techniques with some of the lighter, more experimental leanings of modern French cuisine. The food is excellent but falls short of sublime. Start with beef carpaccio in a mustard dressing or else spaghetti with clams and chile, to be followed by such fish as wild sea bass with a shellfish fondue or else roast suckling pig in apple sauce.
