Shinok

2 Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisines: European

About

Among the most exclusive of Moscow's themed restaurants, Shinok is a tangle of juxtapositions. Its genre is Ukrainian farmhouse, with a multilayered dining hall decorated with haystacks, chicken cages, and the occasional goat, and waitstaff adorned as milkmaids and cowhands. Yet its prices are purely urban, and its clientele is decked out in Armani and Dior. Service is efficient, if somewhat haughty. The chefs present elegant, satisfying versions of countryside standards such as borscht with garlic rolls, potato-stuffed dumplings (vareniki), and suckling pig. The cold sorrel soup (zelyoniye shchi) is both tangy and filling, and the egg-and-spice-stuffed carp is mouthwatering. The wines are overpriced; stick to beer or a simple dry Georgian wine. This is a good splurge option, though count on taking a taxi home since it's a long way from the metro -- or even better, order a taxi in advance to avoid the overcharging cabbies lying in wait outside.

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