Sansheng Wanwu

Next to the Lotus Bar Cuisines: Chinese, Asian

About

This restaurant is nestled in half of a defunct Daoist prayer hall, at the back of a crumbling residential cluster east of the Back Lakes. The hutong outside has no sign -- look for an aged stone archway with the Ming-era temple's name (Guangfu Guan) carved in faded characters at its apex. A narrow path leads from the arch past bemused neighbors to the hall, its beautifully crafted beams and murals brought back to life in early 2003. The manager, who was born in the building and recalls the false roof that hid it from Cultural Revolution vandals, has hired chefs from Qing Cheng Shan in Sichuan, where the Zhengyi school of Daoism developed recipes for longevity and virility. The set meal includes fresh jiaozi, accompanied by delicate side dishes like goose liver rolls with hoisin sauce (e'gan juan), deep-fried pork with medicinal herbs (cungu shao), and sweet gourd-shaped red bean rolls with mountain herbs (shanyao hulu). The drink menu features a bracing "immortal's abode" koumiss (dongtian rujiu), made with fermented milk, and the somewhat more appetizing Daoist medicinal tea (gong cha).
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