Restaurante Akelarre
Paseo del Padre Orkolaga 56
Cuisines: Spanish
About
Opened in 1974 on the western edge of San Sebastián in a hexagonal villa, Akelare became a must for serious foodies when owner/chef Pedro Subijana won the 1983 National Prize for Gastronomy as the best chef in Spain. His preparations have influenced a generation of chefs and defined the entire philosophy of la nueva cocina vasca (modern Basque cuisine). Inside, a sweeping view through large windows encompasses the mists and raging currents of the Bay of Biscay far below. The plushly upholstered modern decor, with a hospitable fireplace, is an appropriate foil for dishes inspired by the Basque caseríos (farmsteads). The perfect beginning to any meal is puff pastry filled with anchovy filets, accompanied by a glass of chilled fino sherry. Traditional dishes might include fish cooked on a griddle with garlic and parsley; beans with bacon, chorizo, and pork ribs; baked rice with clams; or a special marmitako (fisherman's stew). More innovative are the snails with watercress sauce; boiled cabbage stuffed with duck and served with purée of celery; warm bonito salad served with basil, lemon, chervil, and vinegar sauce; and duck filet with exotic seasonal mushrooms. The name of the restaurant, incidentally, translates from the Basque as "Witches' Sabbath."