Paesano's River Walk

(Suite 101) Cuisines: Italian

About

This River Walk incarnation of a longtime San Antonio favorite relinquished its old Chianti bottle-kitsch decor for a soaring ceiling, lots of inscrutable contemporary art, and a more up-to-date menu. But the one thing the restaurant couldn't give up, at the risk of a local insurrection, was the signature shrimp Paesano's. The crispy crustaceans are as good as their devotees claim, as are the reasonably priced pizzas, including the one topped with grilled chicken, artichokes, basil pesto, and feta cheese. Other good values are the hearty southern Italian staples such as lasagna with meat sauce. Standouts among the pricier entrees include the grilled pork chops with potato gnocchi, as well as the veal Francesa. Locals tend to go to the newer -- and somewhat quieter -- Paesano's, across from the Quarry Golf Club, at 555 Basse Rd., Ste. 100 (tel. 210/828-5191).
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