O Muro

Muro do Bacalhoeiros 87-88 Cuisines: Spanish

About

This is the kind of earthy, rough-and-ready fish restaurant that appears in Portuguese-language guidebooks and that a businessman visiting from, say, Lisbon, might search out for an evening meal. Don't expect grandeur: The decor is utilitarian and the staff is gruff. But there's a convivial amiability about the place, with a terrace that was built as part of the foundation buttresses for this medieval waterfront neighborhood a short walk from the Praça de Ribeira. Owned by a once-professional soccer player and his Mozambique-born wife, it specializes in the type of hearty and straightforward cuisine that used to make the Portuguese Empire run. The best dishes include codfish- or octopus-studded rice, red snapper or turbot, fried codfish, and steak with mushrooms, milk, cream, herbs, and lemon-flavored butter. Most dishes are at the lower end of the price scale listed.
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