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Nahiku Coffee Shop, Smoked Fish Stand, and Ti Gallery

Hana Hwy, 1/2 mile past mile marker 28 Cuisines: American

About

What a delight to stumble across this trio of comforts on the long drive to Hana! The small coffee shop purveys locally made baked goods, several flavors of Maui-grown coffee, organic tropical-fruit smoothies, and the Original and Best Coconut Candy made by Hana character Jungle Johnny. Next door, the Ti Gallery sells locally made Hawaiian arts and crafts, such as pottery and koa-wood vessels. The barbecue smoker, though, is my favorite part of the operation. It puts out superb smoked and grilled fish, fresh and locally caught, sending seductive aromas out into the moist Nahiku air. These are not jerkylike smoked meats: The process keeps the kabobs moist while retaining the smoke flavor. The breadfruit -- sliced, wrapped in banana leaf, and baked -- can be bland and starchy (like a baked potato), but it's a stroke of genius to give visitors a taste of this important Polynesian staple. The teriyaki-based marinade, made by the owner, adds a special touch to the fish (such as ono, ahi, and marlin). Among the biggest sellers are the kalua-pig sandwich and the Island-style, two-hand tacos of fish, beef, and chicken, served with about six condiments, including cheese, jalapeños, and salsa. When available, fresh corn on the cob from Kipahulu is grabbed up apace. There are a few roadside picnic tables, or you can take your lunch to go for a beachside picnic in Hana.

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