you should go to Mardin. The province of Mardin is somewhat off the beaten tourist trail, but well worth the effort. The jewel of Mardin is the old city of Mardin itself, spilling down the side of a towering hill, with a surprisingly modern city below. The old Christian quarter of Midyat is worth a visit, as well. The big draw in the area, however, is the hidden Orthodox churches and monasteries. They are exquisite. The plight of the Suriani has eased, and their position there has stabilized--for now. Finally, much of the region could be considered the upper Mesopotamian plain. The enormous GAP irrigation project in Turkey is transforming this area before your eyes. The formerly arid region is green with new agricultural enterprises and bustling with new development. An eye-opener. acolevi@hotmail.com