Linné Terrassen Kök & Bar

Linnégatan 32

About

One of the best restaurants within its neighborhood, this eatery occupies an outlandish-looking covered deck that has disfigured the front of a 19th-century Swedish house. In winter, the venue moves inside into a cozy antique bar that's flanked on two sides with a well-appointed network of dining rooms that still retain the panels, coves, and architectural accessories, including depictions of cherubs cavorting on the ceiling, of their original construction; the well-heeled Gothenburg student-types who eat here "shun flashiness." The cookery is predictable and respectable -- and we don't mean that as a put-down. Menu items include a goat's-cheese mousse with beetroot salad and walnut dressing; a platter of charcuterie and cheeses with cured meats from Sweden and cheeses from Spain; grilled black Angus sirloin with red-wine sauce; and filet of lamb with cider-flavored mustard and chives and a fondant of potatoes and rosemary sauce. Dessert might be a selection of sorbets with marinated strawberries. This place roars into action as a bar as well as a restaurant. As such, it's separately recommended in the "Gothenburg After Dark" section of this chapter.

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