Le Trémail

16 bis rue Mailly Cuisines: Seafood

About

Set on a narrow, cobble-covered alleyway in the oldest part of Collioure, this is a rustic and authentically Catalan restaurant. It functioned for many generations as the family home of the owner, Jean-Paul Fabre. "Le trémail" is local dialect for the small nets used to catch fish in rocky shallow waters. Surrounded by stone walls, hand-painted Spanish tiles, and dangling fish nets, less than 18m (60 ft.) from the edge of the sea, the specialty here is grilled fish (à la plancha), invariably served with olive oil and herb-enriched vinaigrette. Examples include marinated anchovies with braised onions and peppers, and a succulent version of the day's catch. A limited number of "noble fish" -- sole and turbot -- might be on hand, along with a limited roster of meat. Particularly succulent are rondelles of calamari with red wine. For dessert, try the crème Catalán or a homemade pastry.