Le Taj

Near rue Sherbrooke Cuisines: Indian

About

This remains one of the tastiest bargains downtown. The price of the lunch buffet has barely changed since it opened in 1985, and the five-course dinner costs C$28 (US$24/£12). The kitchen specializes in the mughlai cuisine of the subcontinent. Seasonings tend more toward the tangy than the incendiary, but say you want your food spicy and you'll get it (watch out for the innocent-looking green coriander sauce.) Dishes are perfumed with turmeric, saffron, ginger, cumin, mango powder, and garam masala (a spice combination that usually includes cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon). For a real treat, order the marinated boneless lamb chops roasted in the tandoor; they arrive at the table sizzling and nested on braised vegetables. Vegetarians have ample choices, the chickpea-based channa masala among the most complex. Main courses are huge, arriving in a boggling array of bowls, saucers, cups, and dishes, all accompanied by naan (the pillowy flat bread) and basmati rice. Evenings are quiet, and lunchtimes are busy but not hectic.

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