Le Chateaubriand

129 av. Parmentier, 11e Cuisines: French

About

The owner, Inaki Aizpitarte, calls this time-tested old eatery a "neo bistro," and so it is. The dark 1930s decor looks relatively intact, but this native of the Basque Country, where he learned his culinary skills, has completely changed the cuisine. Today instead of the classic coq au vin or steak with frites, you are treated to rare tuna slices in pink beet foam flavored with pomegranate seeds or steamed cod with Moroccan spices. At dinner the only choice is a prix-fixe and it's a winner, perhaps featuring such dishes as eel flavored with orange juice and olive oil, warm cockles and mussels, teriyaki salmon, and mint lamb tagine. Some of the dishes are very daring indeed, including pork belly flavored with licorice.

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