Le 38

In the Hôtel Gray-d'Albion Cuisines: French

About

This restaurant manages to be both cozy and grand, replete with leather chairs, late-19th-century colors of brown and Bordeaux, and warm lighting. Alain Roy's cuisine is subtle and sometimes surprisingly simple, not aiming for the cutting-edge cerebrality of the place's more innovative competitors. Examples are terrines of foie gras, roasted filets of John Dory with olives and baby mushrooms, grilled filet of beef with béarnaise sauce, and roasted lobster with truffle-studded risotto. Dishes developed specifically by Mr. Roy, and unique to this comfortable and upscale restaurant, include marinated strips of swordfish, each grilled with sesame oil; and freshwater sander cooked in a sheath of pulverized olives. Dessert might be an old-fashioned and delicious version of crêpes Suzette.
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