L'Absinthe

24 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1er Cuisines: French

About

Charming and airy, its pair (upstairs/downstairs) of dining rooms are gracefully paneled, and an enormous antique clock dominates a panorama over the chattering and animated dining room. Best of all for foodies who follow this sort of thing, this upscale bistro is associated with one of the mightiest names of mega-celebrity French gastronomy: It's owned and its dining room is supervised by Caroline, daughter of Michel Rostang. In summer, tables spill outside onto an all-pedestrian, see-and-be-seen stretch of street with dauntingly upscale boutiques. Come here for well-prepared, but not particularly innovative, bistro-style food. The best examples are tender veal in a red wine sauce, scallops sautéed with bacon and sherry, poached codfish with a garlicky aioli sauce, and a served-pink version of standing rack of veal. Service is quirky, a wee bit judgmental, and at its worst a bit cranky.
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