La Petite Chaise

36 rue de Grenelle, 7e Cuisines: French

About

This is Paris's oldest restaurant, opened as an inn in 1680 by the baron de la Chaise at the edge of a hunting preserve. (According to lore, the baron used the upstairs bedrooms for afternoon dalliances, between fox and pheasant hunts.) Very Parisian, the "Little Chair" invites you into a world of cramped but attractive tables, old wood paneling, and ornate wall sconces. A vigorous chef has brought renewed taste and flavor to this longtime favorite, and the four-course set menu offers a large choice of dishes in each category. Examples are magret (breast) of duck with sweet-and-sour sauce, pot-au-feu whose ingredients change with the seasons, and grilled sea bass on a bed of fennel with a light butter sauce.

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