If there's such a thing as a culinary personality in Tromsø, it is Emma (also known as Anne Brit), owner of this cozy restaurant across the street from Tromsø's cathedral. Her restaurant, which she runs with a partner named Lars, contains only 34 seats, so reservations are important. Before dinner you can descend into the wine cellar, site of an impressive inventory of bottles. If you order champagne, it will be dramatically uncorked by a saber-wielding sommelier. Appetizers feature grilled scallops with marinated asparagus, pine nuts, and parmesan; or pepper-roasted Arctic king crab. Main courses burst with freshness and originality, including stockfish with bacon and creamed cabbage or else breast of Norwegian duck with a raspberry Béarnaise sauce. Another specialty is grilled and marinated rib of lamb with couscous. The best dessert you are likely to encounter in town is the passion fruit cheesecake with raspberry coulis and a white chocolate mousse.
