非常麻辣烫
Xiaguan, Renminjie (下关，人民街）
Cuisines: Chinese, Authentic Local
About
非常麻辣烫 (Fēicháng má là tàng), Xiaguan, Renminjie (下关，人民街） (It may be hard to find since this is deep territory, but well worth a trip into Xiaguan, so bring a Chinese friend if you can't speak any Chinese, though if not, then if coming from Old Town in the north, ask a taxi driver to take you to the intersection of Tiānbǎo lù （天宝路） and Rénmín nán jiē （人民南街）, from there it's a short walk south and on the right hand side, though the signage will be in its Chinese name.). For most people who stay in Dali for more than a couple days, Xiaguan tends to get extremely short shrift. Dismissed as the more developed and industrial reminder of China that most foreign travellers in China want to blissfully forget, it contains more than a few gems that are regrettably passed over by the wash and lure of Old Town's all too visible tourist scene. This restaurant/bar makes an evening trip to the south of the lake worth it, though those wishing to stop there first while arriving in town would not be disappointed, since it tends to stay open late. They offer extremely kitschy Revolution-era Chinese military and cultural memorabilia decor, as well as one of the most friendly and talkative owners in the area (for those who speak Chinese, though you can always pretend you don't if you want a quiet evening), but the real deal is in the food and booze. Try their various homemade flavored liquors made from every fruit in the area, the Plum Baijiu is one of the favorites (梅子酒）. The food is just unpretentious and absolutely delicious local comfort food, the stir-fried erkuai with peanuts and chives (炒饵块) and dumplings tossed in chili sauce shouldn't be passed over. Vegetarian options are limited, though its still worth the trip as a strictly drinking place for those coming from the Old Town. This place is closing within a year [as of March 2012] because the local government wants to demolish their block to probably make way for some fancy apartment buildings or drab retail center, and as one of the more interesting places in China outside of the huge metropolises, with honest staff and excellent quality food and drink, it deserves your patronage. Support this place and let them know their business would still be appreciated in a new location.
