Die Quadriga

In the Hotel Brandenburger Hof Cuisines: European, Continental

About

This is the kind of place so hushed, so "correct," and so seamlessly upscale that even when the president of Germany shows up (as he does in an informal and unofficial capacity), it barely makes a ripple in the smooth and well-rehearsed service rituals. The setting is a cherry-paneled room on the lobby level of a hotel (the Brandenburger Hof) that's a long urban trek from the restaurant's namesake, the four-horsed statue atop the Brandenburg Gate, in faraway Berlin-Mitte. Meals are served atop snowy linen to no more than 28 clients at a time, each seated on a chair designed in 1904 by Frank Lloyd Wright. Wines are available by the bottle or by the glass, and menu items vary with the season and the inspiration of the chef. The best examples might include Arctic codfish flavored with lemon thyme and served with a potato risotto; foie gras accompanied by Riesling grapes and Perigord truffles; strips of sole with Dublin Bay prawns served with exotic root vegetables; and saddle of venison stuffed with walnuts, black pudding, and pine nuts.
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