Cluny

At Malabia Cuisines: American

About

Cluny is casual but elegant, looking more like a modernist living room than a dining room. A loft space is excellent for hiding away for private conversations or romance. Some choose to dine outside in the patio garden in the restaurant's front space. Sinatra tunes and bossa nova music from the 1960s add to the soft, casual atmosphere. The food, overseen by the new chefs, is the highlight, with an emphasis on fish and fowl, from prawn risotto to spider crabs and duck magret. There are many salmon and codfish dishes, and the interestingly named "Lamb cooked in two different ways." Beef seems to be a second thought, unlike in other Argentine restaurants, though it is well prepared. The extensive wine list runs more than eight pages, noting the finest Argentine vintages from Catena Zapata to French imports at more than $250 (£178) a bottle. In the afternoon, there's a fine British tea service.
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