Chez Savy

23 rue Bayard, 8e Cuisines: French

About

Set within one of Paris's most stratospherically expensive neighborhoods, this old-time brasserie has prices that, compared to nearby competitors, seem modest. Founded in 1923 and with an old-fashioned bistro decor (mirrors, brass hardware, polished paneling, banquettes) that hasn't changed much since the Jazz Age, it has a pair of long and narrow dining rooms, the first of which is known as le wagon (the dining car). Come here for the kind of hearty, flavorful food that your great-grandmother (had she been from the Auvergne) would have prepared for a holiday meal around 1910. Sauces here are likely enriched with bone marrow; pork chitterlings are laboriously processed into earthy versions of andouillettes; and accompaniments to a main course might include a petit farçou, a thick crepe enriched with such green, leafy vegetables as chard, spinach, and leeks. Lamb here is superb, especially the slow-cooked haunches, cooked with rosemary until the meat is literally falling off the bone.
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