Fans say this bistro de luxe is a less expensive, less majestic version of Le Grand Véfour. The early-1900s setting is grand enough to impress a business client and lighthearted enough to attract a roster of VIPs. Tables sit on two levels, among polished mirrors, red leather banquettes, and memorabilia of long-ago Paris. The emphasis is on the cuisine of central France -- especially Burgundy -- shown by the liberal use of wine in such favorites as cassoulet of Burgundian snails with bacon and tomatoes, boeuf bourguignon (braised beef in red-wine sauce) with gnocchi, and sweetbreads baked in puff pastry. Also wonderful is the roasted Bresse chicken with dauphinois potatoes.
