Chez Marie Louise

11 Rue Marie et Louise Cuisines: French

About

The menu in this small slice of a neighbourhood bistrot is short but elegant and precisely cooked. Though Pierre Musy in the kitchen and Christophe Letienne front of house have international CVs on which the words "New York" and "Michelin-starred" feature, the last thing they are is snooty. You'll get a friendly welcome from Christophe, who loves to chat in English, while Pierre sends out ambitious and confident dishes such as millefeuille tiède aux aubergines, tomate confite et ricotta,a little stack of aubergine and light pastry; or rognons de veau, orecchiettes aux fèves au basilic, in which the veal kidneys are accompanied by little ears of pasta, broad beans and basil. No wonder one local reviewer was moved to exclaim: "Le petit Jésus en culotte de velours!" It's not clear why the décor is presided over by a set of traffic lights, no matter how full this little room gets they don't turn red. Christophe seems to be able pull out another tiny table and a couple of chairs from behind the bar like a magician and squeeze it in between the other diners. Reservations recommended.

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