Chez Jean

8 rue St-Lazare, 9e Cuisines: Spanish, French

About

The crowd is young, the food is sophisticated, and the vintage 1950s aura makes you think that American expatriate novelist James Baldwin will arrive any minute. Surrounded by well-oiled pine panels and polished copper, you can choose from some of grandmother's favorites as well as more modern dishes. Owner Jean-Frederic Guidoni worked for more than 20 years at one of the world's most expensive restaurants, Taillevent, but within his own milieu, he demonstrates his own innovative touch at prices that are much more reasonable. For starters, consider a chicken consommé with endives and chorizo; a savory version of a cheesy alpine staple, raclette, made with mustard sauce and Curé Nantais cheese; and slow-braised pork cooked for 7 hours and served on a bed of carrots, apricots, and confit of lemon.
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