In Short Chef Jerry Brahm (formerly of the Bistro on 24th) took over this austere, elegant space in the summer of 2003. Appropriately, the atmosphere is hushed and turn-of-the-century traditional; chamber music lilts through the antique-filled dining room and the straight-forward American menu attracts a more mature crowd. The wine list is diverse and classic entrees include crab cakes and pork tenderloin.