Brasserie de l'Hotel de Ville
19, Grand-Rue
Cuisines: European
About
This is one of the most deliberately archaic-looking restaurants in Geneva, with a reputation that dates from 1764 and a clientele that prefers that absolutely nothing changes in either its old-fashioned decor or its choice of dishes. In spite of its look, it's rather hip and popular with the Genevois, as well as a growing number of arts-industry hipsters and affluent members of the bourgeoisie, who appreciate the place for its old-fashioned charm. Be aware that this place doesn't have a lot of patience with diners who aren't familiar with dining rituals as practiced in an upscale brasserie, and the staff can be brusque. Nonetheless, we continue to recommend it as we would a time capsule to another era. Within a dining room loaded with antique or semiantique kitsch, you'll be joined by antiques dealers and clients from the local antiques shops, as well as occasional celebrities who have recently included Kofi Annan, secretary general of the United Nations. The menu is more sophisticated and better than ever. Try the filets of freshwater lake perch meunière. Sometimes the prized fish of Lake Geneva, omble chevalier, is also served in a butter sauce. One old-fashioned dish remains on the menu, Longeole du val d'Arve (traditional Geneva-style sausages flavored with cumin). You can also order such delights as rack of lamb flavored with herbs of Provence, along with a seasonal focus on asparagus, mushrooms, and game dishes. We always like to launch ourselves with a fresh dandelion salad with medallions of sautéed duck liver.
