Bistrot Paul Bert

18 rue Paul-Bert, 11th Cuisines: French

About

Some critics define this as the best and most appealing middle-bracket restaurant in the 11th arrondissement, and judging by the crowds that pack in here on a Saturday night, we're inclined to agree. Expect a crowded, noisy, usually convivial ambience where diners' necks strain to read the blackboard specials and where overworked, independent-minded waiters don't lightly suffer fools of any nationality. Menu items evoke the classic traditions that have flourished here at least since the 1950s. Classics include chicken braised in yellow wine from the Jura, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, monkfish served with an herb-flavored cream sauce, and roast suckling pig.

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