"We will feed you well, and at a good price, but we don't expect you to call the gourmet magazines if you eat with us." That was a waiter's candid appraisal of this well-respected dinner-only bistro next to a movie theater. It offers food that is praised by the owners of various B&Bs in town without restaurants of their own. In a setting that's vaguely reminiscent of the kind of brasserie you might expect in Paris or Lyons, you can order good-tasting lunches (sandwiches, burgers, croque-monsieur), but only during the peak of midsummer. Like many regional restaurants, the bistro serves mainly French and Danish dishes -- and does so rather well, in our view. The chicken with wine sauce is always a dependable choice, but we find the salmon with a mousseline sauce even more alluring. The tender, well-cooked steaks served here are a good advertisement for Danish beef.
