Aux Charpentiers

10 rue Mabillon, 6e Cuisines: French

About

This old bistro, which opened more than 130 years ago, attracts those seeking the Left Bank of yesteryear. It was once the rendezvous spot of the master carpenters, whose guild was next door. Nowadays, it's where young men take dates. Though the food isn't imaginative, it's well prepared in the best tradition of cuisine bourgeoise -- hearty but not effete. Appetizers include pâté of duck and rabbit terrine. Recommended as a main course is roast duck with olives. The plats du jour recall French home cooking: salt pork with lentils, pot-au-feu, and stuffed cabbage. The wine list has a selection of bordeaux, including Château Gaussens.

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