Alma

Calcada Marques de Abrantes 92

About

Still in his early 30s, Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Pessoa's comparative youth belies a maturity that's seen him develop Alma, one of Lisbon's most talked about restaurants. This beguiling eatery – whose name means "soul" in English – lies within the city's "Santos Design District", one of several found in this trendy catchment area. The restaurant's interior is almost entirely white and decoration is sparse, save for sunken spotlight and an extraordinary cumulus-like chandelier. His skill at interpreting traditional Portuguese recipes and reinventing them as dishes like suckling pig confit with sweet potato fondant or codfish with chickpea purée has placed Sá Pessoa at the vanguard of Lisbon's burgeoning nouvelle cuisine movement. The dégustation menus (tasting menus) are eclectic in their range of textures and flavours and plates are expertly paired with some of the country's most exciting wines. This is perhaps the best way for those not familiar with upscale dining to sample the cooking.

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