Allard

41 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6e Cuisines: French

About

This old-time bistro, opened in 1931, is still going strong. It was once the city's leading bistro, although today the competition is too great for it to reclaim that reputation. Over the years, the front room's zinc bar has been a haven for many celebrities, including Mme Pompidou; actor Alain Delon; and, since then, a gaggle of French celebrities. Allard serves all the old specialties, with quality ingredients deftly handled by the kitchen. Try snails, foie gras, Challans duck with olives, or frogs' legs or turbot in a beurre blanc sauce. We head here on Monday for the cassoulet Toulousian (casserole of white beans and goose and other meats) and on Saturday for coq au vin.

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